“To Build Out or To Build Up… that is the question?”

I am often asked by people who are looking to add square footage to their existing home if it is less expensive to Build Out (Addition) or to Build Up (Second+ Story).

My answer: It is always less expensive and there are a lot less issues when Building Out. Prior to building out you will need to check your local municipality’s Setback Requirements. These requirements dictate how closely your are able to build to your property line. Some municpalities do allow you to get a variance (special permission) to construct outside your setbacks. If you are unable to build out due to your current foundation plan, maximizing your setbacks, then you will have to build up. The costs to Build Out are less expensivie due to the project usually being more straight forward and issues connecting the two structures are minimal. An Architect may charge you more for Building Up due to the extra labor required for them to engineer (Structural Engineering) a new structure on top of the existing. There may be extra costs to strengthen the existing footers for the additional load of the new structure or new reinforced support posts and beams may need to be added. The Contractor is definitely going to charge more and probably “pad” their estimate due to the “unforeseen” issues that may exist. There may also be an “unforeseen” clause in their estimate and as a result the project could cost a lot more than the original agreed upon cost for the project. Most likely this can be expected until the industry develps “X-Ray Glasses” to see into the existing walls and roof. You may have the additional costs of storing the furniture located in the rooms below the new structure and due to the size of the project you may need to temporarily move out. Other “natural” factors may affect the construction costs of the project when Building Up. It is often very difficult to protect the open area of construction from weather conditions and rain/water damage can occur. You will always want to have a clause in your Construction Agreement dictating the terms as to which party is to cover such issues.

Build out whenever possible… less expensive & less “headaches!”

Homeowner Supplied Products

I often tell people that if you want your project completed efficiently and as “stress free” as possible, let your Contractor be responsible for the entire project. However, with the current state of the economy, many people want to supply their own products and materials to their project thinking that this process will save them money. Unfortunately, though it may save a few bucks, more often it extends the project’s duration and causes many “headaches” for the Contractor and the Client. This process can often put additional stress on the Client along with creating a lot of additional tension between the Contractor and the Client. The Client usually only thinks of the “savings” and does not realize the additional work and effort it takes to ensure that the product is ordered in a timely manner as to not hold up the project. They also don’t realize that it is often their responsibility to have the product on the jobsite when it is needed by the Contractor. This means that the Client is responsible for either the pickup or the delivery of the product. If their is a defect with the product, most often the Client is responsible for deterimining the defect and the replacement of the product. If the Client has a busy schedule they often don’t have the time to make the necessary arrangements promptly. The ordering, delivery and return of products with defects is often where project durations get extended by weeks. This is also where strains are placed on the Contractor/Client relationship as to the responsibilities of each party.

For example: The Client is responsible to order the Vanity for their Bathroom Renovation. Due to the Client’s own personal work schedule, the ordering is put off. The Contractor has already started remodeling the project and is getting close to installing the vanity. The Client, finally has the time to order the vanity and realizes that it is going to take three weeks for the vanity to arrive to the supplier. Even after the vanity arrives to the supplier, the Client must find time to pick up the vanity and deliver it to the jobsite. Often, the Client only has time to do this on the weekend and thus prolongs the project’s duration. The Contractor arranges to install the vanity during the beginning of the week only to determine when he opens the box that the vanity is damaged. The Client then has to make arrangements to return the vanity to the supplier with this again taking place over the weekend. As a result, of all these delays, relationships between the Contractor and Client get strained along with between the Contractor and his Subcontractors. Work schedules have to be constantly changed to reflect all of the delays and potentially the schedules of additional materials to complete the project.

Another example: The Client wants to order and supply their own shower valve and trim for their Bathroom Renovation. The Client is very organized and orders the valve and trim promptly. The valve is shipped directly to the Clients house to save time and upon its arrival the plumber installs the valve. The Contractor installs the tile backer board and the tile is installed/grouted promptly. The plumber comes back to install the trim, handle and shower head only to realize that there is an issue with the valve that could not be predetermined. Now the issue arises as to who’s problem it is and fingers start to point. The plumber claims, it is not my fault, I installed the valve according to the manufacturer’s specifications. The Contractor states, it is not my fault, as I had nothing to do with the ordering of the product or its installation and the Client exclaims, it is not my fault as my job was to order the valve and ensure it arrived in a timely manner. Now the project gets held up due to no one wanting to take the blaim and relationships gets strained. However, if the Contractor and Plumber supplied the valve the entire responsiblilty would be on the Contractor and the Plumber. They would be required to remove the valve and see to it that everything was replaced. I have often seen, that the issue with the valve was a manufacturing issue, where the Client was charged for all removal and reinstallation costs. As a result of the Client’s defective supplied valve, the replacement costs far exceeded any savings that the Client would have received by supplying the product themselves.

Both of these examples may be extreme, but I have seen and heard about these issues. Please keep in mind, some Contractors will not allow their Clients to supply their own materials due to the potential issues that can arise from this arrangement. Clients should expect to see the following language in their Construction Agreement, when it is deemed that are able to supply their own materials.

“For any Homeowner supplied materials, the Homeowner is responsible for the ordering and delivery of the materials. The Homeowner is responsible for all accurate measurements of Homeowner supplied items. All installation instructions must be provided by the Homeowner. All fixtures must be on the jobsite several days prior to the fixtures estimated date of installation. We are not responsible for any delays in the project due to waiting for Homeowner supplied Fixtures to arrive on the project. A Homeowner supplied fixture can not hold up the predetermined payment schedule and prompt payment must still be made.”

Crown Your Walls (Crown Molding)

Crown Molding can make a big difference to a room, adding a touch of elegance and style. It is not just for formal rooms, it will enhance the beauty of any room or hallway as I have had requests to install it in almost every room of the house except for small closets and the garage. As the pieces of molding start to get installed, I hear nothing but “ohs” and “ahs” from most of my Clients, as they admire their rooms transformation. One thing to note, crown molding looks great, as long as it is installed properly!

Once you have made the decision to add crown molding to your rooms decor, the next decision, would be to determine the Profile and the Size. The Profile is made up of a combination of cuts in the wood by the manufacturer, that are curved and straight. There are a variety of different Profiles and you can even get a custom made Profile from your local Millworks Shop. I recommend keeping it simple and just selecting a profile from your local Building Supply Store. However, if you want something unique and intricate, you can either have your local Millworks Shop create a profile for you, or you can create your own by using a combination of moldings. Creating your own using a combination of moldings can be fun, however, it is more costly and labor intensive.

My recommendation for the Size of the molding to select, should be determined by the height of your walls. If your ceiling height is 8 foot from the floor, I recommend a 3 5/8″ piece of molding. If you have 10 foot ceilings or higher, I recommend a 5 1/4″ piece. The Size of the molding is determined by the length of the profile from tip to tip. I highly recommend using only Wood molding! There are many composite made moldings, MDF and Plastic to name several, and I will not use these types in any of my installations. These composites are not rigid and as a result they will magnify any imperfections that you may have with your ceiling. Most ceilings are not completely flat, a truss may be slightly higher or lower to the truss next to it, or your ceiling beams may have bowed/sagged over time. Due to these composites being more flexible, they will curve around any of these imperfections making the molding noticeably “wavy”. Since wood is rigid, it will not bend as easily around these imperfections keeping the molding “nice and straight”. I also don’t like to use composites because they make a single person installation nearly impossible.

Some other tips for installing Crown Molding: Do not use pre-made blocks for the inside and outside corners. Yes, they make it real easy for the average person to install, however, they also make the room look “cheap”. Rather than using the blocks, hire a professional to have the Crown Molding installed, it will look a lot better and be worth the money spent. Do not rely on the drywall and caulk to hold up your Crown Molding, meaning, don’t randomly shoot finish nails through the crown into the drywall on the walls and ceiling. You will want to ensure that the Crown stays in place by either fastening it to the studs in the wall or installing blocks to the corner of the wall and ceiling. Try not to have any joints, meaning, unless your wall is longer than 16 ft., use only one piece to span the length of the wall. If you have to use multiple pieces, glue the pieces together and sand them vigorously so they look seamless.

Leak Detection is Detective Work!

Leak Detection can be very easy to detect, other times you may feel as though you may need to hire a detective to find the source.  If you do hire a leak detection company, make sure that their conclusions make sense.  I have often found that the most obvious source of the moisture problem is not always the actual source.   The following two scenarios will shed light on what I am talking about. 

Friends of ours had a yellow stain (yellow or brown stain = moisture issue) in the corner of a downstairs room and was told by a leak detection company that the source of the leak was coming from the french doors that were installed upstairs over the center of the room below.  The leak detection company came to this conclusion because the metal french door had rusted and showed some rust signs on the carpet.  I had never been upstairs in their house before but as soon as I got up there, I knew that the leak detection company had it wrong, there were two separate leaks issues.  I came to this conclusion very easily as they had a tile deck over the room below and knew right away that this was the issue.  Due to the floor joists being flat and the leak down below being ten feet away, there was a very slim chance that the water was getting in through the door and then travel horizontally with virutally no pitch to the floor.   Besides, the most obvious place for the stain would have been directly under the door.   I still did not know exactly what was causing the leak over the room below so I brought out my high tech leak detection equipment- a garden hose.  I methodically used the garden hose and gravity to help me detect the leak.  I noticed that the water was pooling on the deck, letting me know that the deck was not pitched, thus reinstating my thoughts that the deck was the issue.  I finally found the issue, water was entering through the railing holes attaching the railing to the deck.  A little common sense, patience, and a garden hose was all it took.  We later found out that the rust on the door was caused from a leak in the roof.  Again we used the garden hose and methodically started directly above the door and over time kept spraying the water a little higher and higher until we got to the roof.  Normally you can tell or see a reason for the leak in a shingle roof, unfortunately this was a tile roof making it more difficult to make the repair.

The next scenario took place in a commercial building, a regional client of ours was complaining that she had a moisture problem in two areas in the same room.  The first place she showed me was the ceiling, which was a drop down ceiling grid with ceiling tiles.  The other moisture area issue was low on the wall below it.  The building’s management company sent a contractor to inspect the issues.  He stated there was a leak in the roof and he invoiced them for the work he did to the roof.  Our client looking for another opinion called me and asked me to examine the two issues.  I looked up in the ceiling and could not see any traces of water on the underside of the roof panels or metal trusses.  Water will stain items it comes in contact with or rust metal over time leaving small clues as to the moisture source.  I was somewhat baffled as to the source of the moisture and decided to leave and work on determining the source of the other moisture issue.  Due to the stain/mildew being low on the wall and not seeing any areas of concern between the two leaks, I ruled out they were related.  My next thought was to figure out if the moisture was coming through the tenant separation wall from the commercial space on the other side.  I remembered it was a concrete block wall separating the two spaces, most experts would have stopped there stating that there is no way that water would transfer through an 8″ concrete block wall but surprisingly enough, if a wall is not sealed or painted, water will transfer through it.  I then paced off the moisture issue from the front door and proceeded next door to the grocery store on the other side of the tenant separation wall.  While inside, I repaced off the steps and noticed that the grocery store’s deli was in the same area with a walk in cooler and a three compartment sink- Bingo!  The source of the moisture issue!  When I went back over to my Client’s space, I noticed there was some water on the air conditioning vent caused by condensation that was slowly rolling to my moisture issue on the ceiling.  I had now found both sources of the issue.  I reported my findings to the Management Company who then sent out three more contractors to look for the issues and all three claimed that it could not come from the grocery store.  My Client then contacted the grocery store’s manager and asked if they had an issue with their walk-in-cooler, he admitted that water was pooling inside it, leaking out, and as a result they were planning to replace it.   Since it has been replaced, I have not received another phone call in regards to the old moisture issue. 

So remember, the most obvious place for water intrusion or a moisture issues may not be the actual source.  Look deeper and if you are hiring someone to detect your moisture issue ask them to explain their thought process for their conclusions.  Make sure it makes sense!  The reason being, if you repair the damaged areas and the true source of the moisture issue has not been resolved, you will end up with the same problem and will have to make more costly repairs.

“And the Winner Is!” Granite vs. Quartz Countertops

 

Granite Countertop

There are really only two benefits to installing Granite over Quartz.  Granite is currently less expensive and it has a more natural beauty IF you like the look of the veins, striations, and color variations. 

Quartz is a combination of a manmade and natural product.  Here is a case where nature is not always better. Quartz is one of the hardest minerals making the surface virtually scratch resistant (Granite is softer and scratches).  Quartz countertops are dense and non-porous. Granite on the other hand is porous and requires some yearly maintenance.  Even with the maintenance, spills need to be cleaned up as they occur especially with wine, olive oil and even liquid soap.  I have seen all three penetrate the surface of Granite and leave a noticeable “stain”.  Due to Granite being porous it is susceptible to mildew and bacteria adhering to it.  Some Quartz products have a antimicrobial, product added in during the manufacturing process to help eliminate the adherence of mildew and bacteria to the surface.  The overall Quartz product is stronger allowing for larger overhangs without supports needed beneath it (consult with the installer). 

Quartz has a brilliant shine similar to Granite.

Quartz Countertop

Due to Quartz countertops being manmade they have a consistent pattern and colors throughout the entire product.  This could be considered a drawback if you like the veins, striations, and color variations that are natural to Granite.  If purchasing Granite, it is imperative that you select your countertop from the stone yard so you know exactly what you are getting. With Quartz, you can easily select your countertop color from a small sample piece knowing it will be the color that you will receive.

There has also recently been the Radon scare with Granite.  Radon, which is a radioactive gas, can be trapped in the granite which can be emitted into your house once installed.

I recommend all of my Clients to use the Quartz in all of their Countertop needs. 

Here are some additional usages:  Kitchen- Countertop, entire backsplash between countertop and upper cabinets and any kitchen window sills. Bathroom- Countertop, knee wall cap, window sill, shower seat/shelf, shower curb (entry).

Installation: The quartz installation is similar to granite.  The installer will come out and create a template based on the cabinet layout and additional overhangs. The installers will usually require having the sink (I recommend a undermount sink) on site at the time of creating a template.  Back at their shop, they will cut the countertop the size of the template, cut any holes for the sink and attach the sink to the countertop. They will also add any edging and will usually offer a variety of profiles.  They will usually drill the holes for the faucet on the job site. Once the countertops are installed, they will clean and buff them.

You will need to hire a plumber, to hook up the plumbing drain lines for the sink and to install the faucet.

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As We Age, Everything Sags (Sagging Doors)

As our houses age we often start to have issues with our interior and exterior doors closing correctly.  Most of the time the sympton that arises is the door will start to sag and the top corner on the latch side starts to rub against the jamb.

The reason this occurs, the manufacturers of the hinges only supply 3/4″ long screws to attach the door to the jamb.  Over time, the weight of the door will cause the door to sag and the jamb to bow. 

The solution to the problem with an interior door is to remove one or two of these 3/4″ screws that attach the hinge to the door jamb and replace it with a longer wood screw.   It is important to use either a battery operated or corded drill with a screw tip to accomplish this.  If it is only the top corner of the door that is rubbing against the latch side of the jamb, then you will only need to adjust the top hinge. 

The first step would be take the drill and remove two of the existing interior hinge screws.  These two screws are located on the inside side of the hinge.  Next, insert a minimum of a 2 1/2″ (or larger) wood screw into these holes and use the drill to screw them in.  A good amount of force will be required to drive the screw into the framwork around the door.  Becareful not to overtighten the screw as the screw head may break off or the screw will lose its grip (stripping)  it inside the wood.  The purpose of installing the longer screw is to pull the hinge and the jamb closer to the surrounding door framework.   This should now alleviate the door from rubbing against the jamb. 

If the door still rubs against the latch side of the door jamb in the middle or the bottom, use the same above steps for the middle and bottom hinge.

If it is an exterior door that has the issue, use the following two methods.  If your home is wood framed, you can use wood screws similiar to the example above for interior doors.  If your home is constructed of concrete block, you will need to use masonry screws (special screw that screws into concrete).  Prior to installing the masonry screw into the hinge, you will need to pre-drill the hole with a masonry drill bit.  A masonry drill bit has a different tip then a wood drill bit.  When you purchase the masonry screws from your local hardware store, it will specify the size of the masonry drill bit that will needed.  Some packages of masonry screws come with a masonry drill bit. 

Follow these steps and your doors will be closing as easily as the day they were installed.

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Painting and Choosing the right Sheen for the Project

Sheen, is how shiny or dull the paint finish is after it is dry.  There is a Sheen spectrum, with Gloss (shiniest) being at one end of it and Flat (dull) being at the other end.  In between the two of these there are a variety of other Sheens, which I mostly use when painting.   The entire Spectrum is as follows starting from the dullest to the shiniest: Flat; Satin; Eggshell; Semi-Gloss; and Gloss.

Here are some important tips when choosing which Sheen will work best for your project.  The shinier the Sheen the more scrubbable or the abilitiy to clean the surface that has been painted.  This means that it is much easier to clean a surface that was painted with Semi-Gloss Sheen than would be a surface that had been painted with a Satin Sheen.

On the other hand, the shinier the Sheen the more flaws in the surface being painted stands out.  This means that a wall that has been painted with a Gloss Sheen will have more of its imperfections stand out as opposed to that same wall being painted in a Flat Sheen.  Imperfections in a wall can consist of scratches, inconsistencies in wall texture, dents in the surface, improper repairs, etc…  If these items are painted with a Gloss Sheen any light sources will reflect off of this Sheen and make any imperfections stand out from the rest of the surface.  The shinier the Sheen, the brighter the room will become depending on the amount of light emitted from a light source.  Be careful because the shine or reflection from the light source can be bothersome to you eyes. 

My recommendation for a home is to paint the interior walls with either a Satin or Eggshell Sheen.  I have found that these Sheens are ideal on the walls because they are easier on the eyes, while at the same time, do not highlight the imperfections in the wall as readily and allow for some cleanability.  I recommend a Semi-Gloss Sheen for the doors,baseboards, doorcasing , and other woodwork because I want these items to standout.   These items also have a tendency to get dirty more readily and I want to have the ability to clean them better.  I only recommend a Flat Sheen when painting the ceiling and rarily ever use a Gloss Sheen on any surface.  

On the exterior walls, I recommend the same as the interior, a Satin or Eggshell Sheen.  I have seen houses that have been painted in a Gloss Sheen that have been unbearable to look at without Sunglasses.   For the exterior doors and trim, soffits and fascia, I use a Semi-Gloss Sheen.   You can also use an Eggshell Sheen on these items due to the amount of light emitted and reflected from the  sun.

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Iosa Construction Getting Involved with Young Life

 

A few weeks ago, we, at Iosa Construction had the opportunity to help make a difference in the lives of Children who will be attending a Young Life Camp this summer.  We were able to do this by volunteering our services to help improve their camp, Southwind located in Ocklawaha, FL. (Ocala Area), over the duration of four days.

If you are unfamiliar with Young Life, they are a Christian Organization that is designed to mold the lives of teens in a Christian atmosphere.  “We believe in the power of presence.  Kids’ lives are dramatically impacted when caring adults come alongside them, sharing God’s love with them.  Because their Young Life leader believes in them, they begin to see that their lives have great worth, meaning and purpose.”-  Young Life Website

This was the second year that there was a presence from Iosa Construction at the Southwind Work Week.  However this was the first year that I attended along with my Wife and 10 month old daughter.  It was a great four days that allowed us to work on various camp projects with other volunteers from across the state.   We were thoroughly impressed with the camp accommodations, ammenities, food, and the Staff.  If any of you know myself or my wife, we don’t camp and after our first day, we realized, this was anything but your typical “camping” scenario. 

The Camp Staff created a list of projects prior to our arrival and we were placed on several projects that required our skills.  Some of the older buildings needed repairs made to the siding and they also asked us to construct a structure to hold several garbage cans for one of the buildings keeping with the theme of the camp. 

We would like to thank John Hopkins and Luke Phillips, who helped us accomplish these tasks.  We would also like to thank Jeff Iosa, our former Vice President, turned Youth Director and Young Life Leader for introducing us to the Young Life organization and asking us to get involved.  Another Thanks needs to go out to the Southwind Camp Staff for their great hospitality during our stay.

 If you are interested in obtaining more information on the Young Life Organization go to www.younglife.org

 If you are interested in getting your Child involved with a great organization this link will help you locate your nearest Young Life Club or Office www.younglife.org/Locator/  (worldwide)

Starting our Project

Installing Siding

Finished Project

Of Course it Works!

Tax Credit Mayhem!

The Federal Tax Credit was deemed as a great way to help stimulate the economy while at the same time help to reduce our dependency on energy by making our homes more energy efficient.   Unfortunately, here in the South it has only confused Remodelers such as myself.  I have found that some Remodelers installing windows are misinformed about the Tax Credit, which will only hurt their reputation when their clients proceed to file for the Tax Credit a year from now.  These Clients will then find out that the windows sold to them do not in fact meet the requirements for the Tax Credit.  

The following depicts how we came across information on the Tax Credit to keep our Clients informed.

A few months ago, we were in the process of ordering windows for an addition that we were constructing.  In the South we like to install Impact Resistant Doors and Windows to protect our homes from wind-borne debris from storms (Hurricanes).   Fortunately, I found out, that the Impact Resistant windows I had ordered for the project did not meet the stringent requirements to take advantage of the Tax Credit.  I contacted my Window Supplier and canceled the order.  I then proceeded to do my own research on the Tax Credit acting responsibly on behalf of our Client.  

I contacted the Window Manufacturer for the main line of windows that we prefer to install and found out that none of their Impact Resistant Windows met the Tax Credit requirements.  The main Tax Credit Requirement, requires the windows to have a U-Factor and a Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) of less than or equal to .30.  There are many other requirements which will be discussed below.   I then proceeded to contact other window manufacturers and found out one after another also did not have windows that met both requirements.  Some of the window manufacturers realizing the problem, told me that they were working on products to meet both of these requirements and would be available in several months. 

As I was doing this research, I was contacted by a previous Client that wanted us to give them an estimate on replacing some of their windows.  They told me that they received several estimates in which they were given a quote on a specific window brand in Impact Resistant that met the Tax Credit requirements.  Knowing this window brand very well, I proceeded to tell them that they were misinformed, that these specific windows in fact did not meet the Tax Credit requirements.  At this point, I proceed to get in touch with a contact that I had made who writes for Remodeling Magazine.  I informed her of the situation that is occurring and as a result she wrote an article about it.  http://www.remodeling.hw.net/windows/a-transparency-problem.aspx

A couple of weeks ago, I contacted the Department of Energy to also discuss with them the situation that existed.   As we discussed it, I was told that Energy Star, who helped the gov’t configure the Tax Credit Requirements, changed them temporarily.  Through June 1st, windows that meet the Energy Star criteria for the regions that they are being installed are capable of taking advantage of the Tax Credit.  After June 1st, all windows being installed looking to take advantage of the Tax Credit must revert back to the stringent U-Factor and SHGC requirments of less than or equal to .30.  This information can be found on the Energy Star website.   I have recently discovered very few window manufacturers and suppliers are aware of this small but important timely change. 

We recommend that if you are a Homeowner in the South ordering Impact Resistant Windows and looking to take advantage of the Tax Credit that you should review all of your window paperwork to ensure that the windows meet all the criteria.  Do not necessarily take your Remodelers word that the windows meet all the requirements.  Should you need any help please contact us.

Below are the rest of the Tax Credit Requirements:

• The Tax Credit is available from January 1, 2009 through December 31, 2010.  Items must be installed during this time frame.
• The Tax Credit is available for 30% of the cost of the Windows and Doors up to $1,500.00.  Due to there being other Home Improvements that are available for the Tax Credit, the $1,500 is the max. total amount that can be claimed for all new products in service for 2009 and 2010. Please note: there are several exceptions.
• The Tax Credit is available for the Replacement of Doors & Windows in an existing home and is not available for windows and doors for a new home.
• The Replacement windows and doors must be for your primary residence. 
• It is best to have as much information about y our new doors and windows as possible to show proof of the Improvements. 
  • Write down the name and address of the manufacturerThe Make and Model of the Window or Door
  • Need to have the Manufacturer Certification Statement stating that the Window or Door meets the Energy Star Energy Efficiency Requirements.
  • It is being recommended to save your receipt and Window Stickers (precautionary).

Please visit the Energy Star website for more information: http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?c=products.pr_tax_credits   or  www.energystar.com

Trials and Tribulations of Obtaining a Building Permit (Part II of II)

(Continued from previous Blog Post…)

…The next day, I drove down to the Building Department hoping that I would be allowed to completely submit for my permit.  I checked in with the receptionist, like I had done the previous day and waited my turn in line.  Unfortunately, I was called by a different permit specialist to go over my submission.  Due to her being unfamiliar with my project and the issues that we had the previously day,  we had to go back through each of the items that were on the Permit Checklist.   I handed her the NOA Letters, which she happily accepted along with the rest of the paperwork.  I breathed a sigh of relief when she told me that everything looked good and that I should hear back from the Building Department after the Plan Review Department reviewed the drawings and the rest of the documents. 

After a week had gone by, I checked in with the Building Department to find out the status of the project.  I was told that the project had not yet been approved and still needed to be reviewed by two other departments.  After another week of not hearing from the Building Department, I decided to follow up again.  This time the person I talked to, told me that the permit had been reviewed with several comments and that I should have been notified.  I told her that we were never contacted and that we had not been left a message (of course the Building Department is infallible).  She copped an attitude and told me that I still needed to address the comments and resubmit my drawings.  That day I drove down to the Building Department and obtained the list of comments that needed to be corrected.  As I reviewed them, I was somewhat relieved when I noticed that the two of them were very minor items that needed to be addressed and corrected.  On my way back to the Office, I drove by my Architect’s Office and went over the items with her.  She told me that she would immediately correct the two items and will send the plans out to get reprinted.  As I left, I told her jokingly that I would be back by the next day to pick them up from her.  I was pleasantly surprised when she told me that she would have them for me.  I waited the next day for the phone call from my Architect and then it happened around 3pm.  Knowing that the Building Department closed at 4:30pm and it was a thirty minute drive, I quickly picked up the plans, thanked my Architect and drove to the Building Department. 

I hit a lot of traffic, on my way and when I finally got the to the Building Department it was close to 4pm.  I signed in and like the previous visits, I sat and waited for my name to be called.  At about a quarter after 4pm, my name was called and luckily it was the same permit specialist that I had from the previous visit who was familiar with my project.  She checked in the Architectural Drawings and told me that I should hear back in several days in regards to the two corrections.  I thanked her for her help and headed back to my truck.  As I got to my truck, I noticed that I had a yellow envelope on my windshield.  Under my breath, I muttered a four letter word as I new it was a parking ticket.  In my rush to get into the Building Department before they closed, I forgot to put change in the parking meter. 

Sure enough, a few days later my permit was approved and this time, we did receive the phone call!  I made another trip back to the Building Department to obtain all my paperwork and the permit.  Unfortunately, I had to check in and wait for my name to be called to get it. After securing the permit I drove back to the office making phone calls letting our subs know that we are starting the project.

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